How to fall on auto belay reddit. And yes we are scared of falling.
How to fall on auto belay reddit They must know what a back clip is and a z clip as well as show confidence while doing so. The massive triangle is a new thing because of this. 1. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I took a pretty gnarly fall on lead yesterday. Ask the staff what is in the lead test. This guide explains everything you need to know, from the internal mechanics to safe usage. We first responded by removing our Perfect Descent auto belays (Perfect Descent was a defendant in We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The mom claims the auto belay failed, which is preposterous bc he wasn't even connected to it. The gym’s been around for over 25 years and definitely has an old school feel. Do it once and you'll never be as scared again. I somehow didn't previously realize that the device is placed on a rail up there and that it can move left and right. Even when we did it was just a blue triangle, with no writing on Have him use an auto-locking belay device such as a Petzl GriGri and make sure he's anchoring in the gym. I’ve had to take two falls - one for my class and one for my gym Jan 15, 2024 · Statistically speaking, the vast majority of auto-belay users leave our gyms unscathed. 4 days ago · Plan a trip, find a hike, and scout fall color in Washington with our interactive fall foliage map! Daily updates begin on September 1st. If you have a gym with an autobelay it may be a good opportunity for you to catch some practice falls with an auto-belay. Learning to breathe deeply and slowly while climbing. e. 274 votes, 101 comments. and metal work can go through the belay loop. I would think that top roping kids would come with a different set of instructions than teaching older kids auto belay technique, or indeed any other type of climbing Jul 21, 2016 · Enter the auto-belay, a specialized device common in many gyms that takes the place of a real live person on the other end of the rope. That is one of the areas where auto belays can really shine. P. As others have said, always do your I was using auto-belay today for the first time (technically second, but my first time was learning to lead while also tied to auto-belay just to feel more secure, so I had two ropes holding me not just the auto-belay). But why do leaves change their color in the first place? Oct 25, 2025 · Beautiful, scenic drives and day trips to see colorful fall foliage along Washington State highways and mountain slopes. Using a throwaway acct to avoid alarming people I know. I'm new to climbing, been going to a gym for 6 months and love it. The practice is easy: somebody climb and the other person belay. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. This lawsuit really amped up the conversation. Auto belay laps. I wasn’t a huge fan. It seems like you are setting up some kind of spring loaded children wrecking ball system. But the belay loop is rated high enough and should hold the same falls. How to use fall in a sentence. Others have suggested it already but I think having them purposely fall on the auto-belay is the only way they'll get used to it. You are mostly passive rappeling: you slide down along the rope, using your rappelling device (same as a belaying device, but used differently), the belayer is not involved, you are the active party. " After pushing myself and climbing more and more, you eventually just get used to all the falling and learn to trust the equipment (and the I started doing “fall training” for myself on auto belay just to get away from the super scared feeling, which is something I haven’t ever struggled with before. Clipping in with carabiners instead of tying you own knot is actually the same problem: its not inherently unsafe (I mean, its also used A locking carabiner takes the place of the belay loop and attaches to the harness via the same two points that cradle the rope when you tie in. Something happened with my partner's belay… With this goal we (auto-climb. 10a make the climber climb to 6th quickdraw take an announced fall then continue climbing and take a suprise fall then finish the route. I would be nervous just to let go of the wall to "take. S. Typically, using the auto belay requires a really quick 2-5 minute orientation and demonstration and then you’re set to go. Yep, that would be rude. So when a climber is on belay, the belay carabiner is loaded at three points--two on the harness and one where the rope slides. Dinos would also be fairly difficult for a system like this (although this isn't any different then most other auto belay systems out there). Fall is harvest season. Reply reply sykessen • Maybe your college was different but I don't seem to remember any classes that even came close to being helpful in designing an auto belay system. You can do repeats if no one's waiting. If it doesn't arrest your fall, you know you haven't clipped in properly. fall when talking about the season of pumpkin spice. Just jump off one meter above the ground and see whether the auto belay catches. I usually top rope with an experienced friend. Also, a fun fact about auto belays, when they fail, they're designed to bind up rather than let you fall, keeping you stuck on the wall. Last night I did Belay System Costs An auto belay system is significantly more expensive than a traditional belay system because it is a very technical piece of safety equipment. The gym I initially learned to belay at (Pacific Edge in Santa Cruz, CA) taught exclusively on ATCs and I don’t recall ever seeing someone using an assisted braking device (though I’m sure some percentage of people did). Learn How to Safely Use Auto Belays 🧗♀️ | Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners & Pros In this video, we walk you through the proper techniques for using auto belays, ensuring your safety Feb 22, 2020 · And why won’t it drop me if I fall? Let’s look into the mechanics of the device to get a better understanding of how they work and why auto belays are a far safer alternative to climbing alone than free soloing. Set up above a particular route, the auto-belay automatically takes in slack as you move up. Annual or bi-annual inspections, as required by the manufacturer, involve disassembly, inspection, repair, testing and recertification of the unit. Hi all! I’ve been climbing for about a year and started climbing on ropes within the last 8 months or so. While they offer many benefits, there are also drawbacks to using an auto belay. Local gym in my area uses these auto belay systems, in the past two weeks they've failed 3 times. Nov 17, 2025 · Leaves changing colors is one of the most iconic parts of autumn in the United States. She threatens to sue and they settle out of court (gym paid for nearly all of it) bc a lawsuit could have been more costly, caused the gym to close temporarily, and caused their insurance rates to go up. We had this happen a few times too and it didn't become policy to have the warning triangle until the insurance company threatened to withdraw if we didn't instal one. Reply reply more repliesMore repliesMore replies thaddeus Vertical World in Seattle has a good system. With the Mammut Smart, the force applied to disengage the auto locking quickly gets overpowered by friction of the rope and locks very fast in the case of a fall. Belay glasses make it difficult to visualize your immediate surroundings, which makes moving around risky or difficult. New to climbing with a harness : r/climbing Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing But at that point, why not just belay each other normally? There is a much easier solution that doesn't require a second person. So it was normal to fall, be caught by the belay, and try again. So that's how it pulls in slack. However, the most TRUBLUE Auto Belay - Beware. at least stepping into the fall (or on a hanging belay, standing into it up)? On a hanging belay, if you put both hands on the brake in front of you, one of them is going to get trapped between your tether and the brake strand and if it's a big enough fall, snap it. I would practice falling as others have recommended here, to avoid the day you fall on accident and create a lot of fear on the autobelay. Sep 3, 2024 · If you’ve ever wondered why leaves change color or how fall got its name, we’ve got you covered! From celestial events to natural phenomena, here are 15 fun facts about fall that will amaze you. The installation cost for each system is the same. The staff look at your eight knot, how you belay and the climber needs to take a fall. How are Auto Belays constructed An auto belay device is comprised of two main parts - the internal mechanism and the outer shell. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. The auto belay is spooky as hell but the first time falling is always the hardest. As somebody who uses auto belay a LOT, this was a bit worrying to hear but I‘m wondering if this Anyone have experience or resources on if auto belay is safe while pregnant with a full body harness? Compared to top rope I was thinking it has a bit more of a fall before the device starts to lowers you down. Here's everything you should know about the first day of fall—plus our favorite fall facts, folklore, photos, and more! Nov 9, 2025 · autumn, season of the year between summer and winter during which temperatures gradually decrease. That being said, your fear of auto-belays might be a larger issue if it develops into an overall fear of falling. I work at a gym and we do our test on a 5. This is sometimes called a static vs dynamic belay point, top rope is static, leading is dynamic. I worked at a climbing wall for years and we just clipped it into an anchor on the wall, or a ground anchor. Most injuries that take place in indoor climbing gyms are a result of bouldering. I started working as a contractor for Belay doing virtual assistant work in early February 2023. Just make sure you always 100% double and triple check you’re clipped in properly before climbing and you’ll be fine. Sep 10, 2025 · In 2025, the autumnal (fall) equinox arrives on Monday, September 22. It’s all psychological for me but I feel like I’m not ready to trust it. Bouldering laps at low grade. I asked why there were only three auto belays there today instead of the usual five and he said that two of them failed inspection and have been getting fixed for the past few weeks and may not be back for a while longer. I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). The home of Climbing on reddit. you are attached to the rope with a knot. And almost all of these injuries are less serious than injuries from climbing on top rope, lead, or auto belay. A close call that I am aware of with an auto belay was due to someone's t-shirt and/or belay loop getting stuck in the carabiner gate and preventing the gate from fully closing and autolocking. However, as with anything that people rely on to keep them safe, it is important to understand how auto belays work, how the technology varies between different brands, and what risks and safety considerations you should be aware of before purchasing, installing, or using an auto belay. It’s like anything with climbing on ropes, you just need to learn to trust the gear. Let us explore some of the pros and cons of auto belays. Then, when you reach the top (or fall), it gently lowers you to the ground. We break down the two main types of braking systems—magnetic (eddy current) and friction Apr 24, 2023 · The auto belay provides a controlled descent using magnets, centrifugal force, or hydraulics as a braking mechanism. Lead belaying takes practice, especially outdoors when there are other considerations such as ensuring your climber doesn’t fall onto a ledge etc (I will adjust slack accordingly). The use of auto belays has been a hotly debated topic in the indoor climbing industry for the last 10 years. 368 votes, 309 comments. Warming up properly (keep intensity low for your first few climbs, if you're pumping in your first few climbs you need to pick easier grades). Bouldering remains the most dangerous form of rock climbing for most indoor rock climbing gyms. Outside the tropics, autumn marks the transition from summer to winter, beginning in September (Northern Hemisphere) or March (Southern Hemisphere). If you're about to fall on a route, you may want to tighten the slack up then go for it if using this system (perks of having an actual climbing partner). There were many times while progressing and doing a more difficult rating that me or my partner would take a break and sit back in the rope. One caused a ground fall from ~25 feet up, one instance was caught and after a couple tugs the system caught and the climber was able to be safely lowered and the third instance resulted in a down climb to safety. And yes we are scared of falling. In September, after a four year long legal battle over an auto belay accident, Vertical World publicly announced a shocking $6m settlement. A friend of mine, who is an experienced trad climber had an auto belay fall when thought he'd clipped in but now thinks he must have put it on the belay loop and not totally through it, so the gate didn't close. If there is an auto belay wall you could try that, doesn't help with a fear of falling, but I've found it useful to be able to look down without getting scared and I can climb a lot higher clipped in so feel less tired at the top of bouldering routes and trust myself more which lowers my fear. Just wondering what everyone else’s May 28, 2021 · An auto belay is a device that allows you to climb roped routes in a gym without a human belayer. Slow down, try to be more in the present, and give yourself a checklist/routine to follow every time you step up to the belay. The reason for this is because when the auto belay is connected from the top of the wall to the ground, it is under a heavier load on it's coil than if the auto was left "up" (with the lanyard just barely hanging out of the auto belay canister). don't use the belay loop with a rope. The climber needs to unclip the sheet to clip in to the auto belay, the sheet falls to the ground uncovering the starting holds. However, lately I've been doing quick sessions alone in my spare time using the auto belay system. Hi all, hoping you have some advice. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. Autumn, also known as fall in North American English, [1] is one of the four temperate seasons on Earth. but I don’t like how it catches your fall; it gives you a really soft fall, but it means I have to free fall a bit first and trust the autobelay as it softly catches my fall. I took a leap and decided to accept. I think it’s natural to fear auto belays, especially as they feel so alien when you’ve been used to having a partner belay you. I had a hard time finding any information out there from actual contractors who work with them and their experiences when I was deciding to accept a contract with them. The auto belay is clipped to a plastic sheet at the bottom of the climb. The sheet covers the starting holds for hands and feet when the auto belay is clipped to it. It is often called fall in the United States because leaves fall from the trees at that time. New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. Belay System Inspection, Care and Maintenance Both belay systems need to be properly inspected and maintained. It automatically picks up slack as you climb and provides a controlled descent when you fall or reach the top. Jun 2, 2025 · Is it "fall" or "autumn"—or both? Here's what to know about using autumn vs. Something to be aware of: there's a difference between an auto belay failing due to some design or manufacturing flaw and failing due to wear and tear. It cost like 15$ and it takes 15min Alternative to auto-belay devices for at-home climbing wall? Building an outdoor climbing wall. Jan 24, 2023 · Auto belays are great for climbing roped walls without a partner and for training endurance or doing laps on climbs, as you don't need a human belayer. com) are first who introduced a double safety system: if there has not been an annual recertification every year or two, for years using auto-belay, it still will not allow a person to fall, because in the event of failure of the brake mechanism, the locking mechanism will work. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. Theres drills you can do for bouldering to help strengthen and get comfortable. . This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. When I lead belay, I move around constantly, whether it's to move out of my climber's fall zone, to adjust where I am in relation to the wall, etc. The whole point of the auto belay is to walk up, clip yourself in (easy to do, it’s only two clips) and get going. Like you, they also had a reason for picking the auto-belay over the available top rope climbs, and your reason is no more important than whatever theirs is. If you're outdoors and your belayer weighs significantly less than you have them tie off to a tree or boulder or place a piece of gear protecting upward motion. Have you ever taken a fall on a belayer who is heavier than you and braced vs. Even when they break they won't drop you. lowering: you stay on belay, and the belayer lowers you down using his belaying device. In through nose!!! Learning to manage fatigue on the wall, so finding good rest spots, shaking out. The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) but for leading the belay point should not be anchored as this gives the climber a softer fall. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. Auto belay will help you get comfortable with falling but you're still gonna have to practice falling when you're bouldering to properly get comfortable. I took a lead class with my climbing partner in late January which was really informative and helpful! The second I even think about taking a fall my hands turn into cement on the holds and I simply can’t do it. Also, when I first started (top rope) I remember the same fears. Using the belay loop itself is not a safety problem, the knot just sits a bit higher and you could get a bruise if you take a lead fall and the knot hits your upper body hard enough. I’ve gone on to try the auto belays at this new gym that had just opened up. The belayer should use proper belay technique, control the slack properly, not short I will actually verbally say these to myself to make sure I’m checking each thing especially on an auto belay where you don’t have anyone to double check for you. This is a reminder that you must stay focused on safety at all times while climbing, especially by yourself. The gym I started climbing at did not have auto-belay, so everything was with a partner. 25 votes, 20 comments. Otherwise, go up/down once and hand off to the next person and wait your turn. If you climb or work at a gym with auto-belays, what did they do to get everyone to clip, and what was your opinion of their methods? I have never worked at a gym before so I’m not sure how common this is. Sep 21, 2025 · 50 Fantastic Fall Pictures That Will Make You Fall in Love With the Season These happy fall images include colorful leaves, pumpkins, sunshine shining through the trees and more! The meaning of FALL is to descend freely by the force of gravity. The gym where I work has had a sudden rash of people forgetting to clip in, and we are currently looking for every option available to increase the safety of our auto-belays. The carabiner somehow got pushed up against a hold and unclipped from the belay loop leaving the climber stranded mid-route.