Using a belay device to rappel. It works both ways, but twists ropes.

Using a belay device to rappel Tube-Style Belay Devices How they work: Tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Reverso are very similar to the original belay device which was simply a metal plate with two holes in it. Girth-hitch the sling through the two tie-in points on your harness and snug it up, keeping the bar tack close to your belay loop (fig. Feb 12, 2024 · A vast majority of belay devices double as rappel devices – the terms belaying device and rappel device are often used interchangeably - but you need to know how to properly use them in order to rappel safely. In this video, we show you how to set up a rappel extension, how to thread the rope through your rappel device, how to back up the rappel with a friction hitch and how to rappel down the wall. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. May 19, 2022 · If you need a belay device to rappel, we've got you! We dig into the different types of devices out there and which ones are best for each rap type! See full list on scoutorama. The Petzl Reverso device allows you to up your climbing game whilst out at the crag. Rappelling sideways places the belay device in a somewhat awkward position and your shirt can get snagged in the rope. However, there are pros and cons to each backup technique, so it’s important to understand each method’s benefits and limitations before trying it out at the crag. Though not recommended anymore, since rappel/belay devices are much more widely available, it was used frequently in the past. Keep reading to learn how to use a rappel device when rappelling. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Holding the brake side of the rope helps engage the cam, so it always important to The original mass-produced belay device was a sticht plate, followed by a figure-8. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. Nov 20, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. Learn multiple ways to rig it, and the pros and cons of each. Use a canyoneering device for a 6 ml and develop some canyoneering rappel techniques but 6 ml is too thin as a single for mountaineering due to damaging terrain/edges. The different types of rappelling are: Standard rappels Australian rappels Hanging rappels Military rappels Simul-rappel Fireman’s belay Tandem rappels It’s important to know about the different types of rappelling so that you’re aware of what’s appropriate for what situations, and any differences in the gear you need to carry. Back-up systems include extra rope to use as safety back-up known as prusik and personal anchor tether (also known as personal anchor system). Jun 3, 2022 · To extend your device, use a double-shoulder-length sling or your personal anchor system (PAS). This video shows the safest method for setting up a rappel for a new climber by keeping them on belay at all times. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. I go through how it works, how to use it, how to back it up, and how to safely rappel with it. Feb 22, 2020 · Ultimately, we recommend extending your rappel and using an autoblock backup below the belay device. All of these modes allow for a nearly endless number of options when lead belaying, belaying the second, or rappelling, making this the most versatile device we have used. Sep 29, 2022 · What’s Rappelling? Rappelling, also known as abseiling in some parts of the world, is a technique of lowering oneself down a rope using a rappel device. Whether you are rappelling one pitch, or in a multi-pitch setting, there are many important things you need to know about rigging a rappel. Yes it is a little confusing, so let's break it down step-by-step in the photos below. Jul 25, 2025 · Learn six key belay systems for rappelling—independent, bottom belay, self-belay, automatic, and more. Symmetry allows flipping that extends the life of the device. But if someone fucks up, or the belayer is injured, then belay devices with assisted-braking provide an additional layer of safety towards not-dropping the climber. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant an Feb 7, 2019 · 5 - Girth hitch a tether through your harness tie in points or belay loop (pros and cons to both, won’t get into those here) and clip it to the ascender with a locking carabiner. . Then use a third locking carabiner to set up the autoblock off of the belay loop. For a standard rappel, a climber will secure a climbing rope to a top anchor. 1). READ MORE HERE. Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Oct 26, 2025 · CRITR3 !!! An innovative rappel device from Todd and Desi at Climbing Sutra, now an Imlay Canyon Gear product. Step 1: Pass blue rope through the anchors, tie it to the green rope with a flat overhand bend. This is great for people new to rock climbing or rappelling to get used to Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. Lots of options has made this a popular rappel device especially for The basic rappelling equipment consists of ropes, anchors, rappel devices, a locking carabiner, and a harness. A climbing helmet, hiking shoes, gloves, and of course, comfortable clothes are a must if you are going rappelling. 8 rings and ATC’s are the most common, but in recent years climbing companies have invented tons of different options. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may be slightly different for each one. This is one of the easiest and safest ways to rappel down after a hunt. Depending on your intended use and your overall dedication to climbing, rappelling, or canyoneering, the best belay device for you will vary Dec 11, 2014 · Use a second locking carabiner to clip the end of the sling into the rappel anchor to safely secure yourself to the anchor while you set up the rappel. This will keep all of the moving parts away from loose clothing, and makes the system more manageable to control. The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Pull up a bight of rope and attach your third-hand to the rope using an This post is going to cover one of the most basic pieces of equipment, the rappel device. It also allows rappelling in both standard and auto-blocking modes. This post will walk you through what a rappel device is, how to use one, and some of the most common types of belay and rappel devices. The best and most widely-used rappel devices in modern canyoneering are the CRITR2, the Hoodoo-SL, and the ATS. Nov 14, 2024 · Body rappelling is a traditional method of descending a rope without using modern equipment like a harness or belay device. Part of the new wave of rappel devices that allow changes in friction while rapping. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 10+ belay/rappel devices. Jun 2, 2024 · Extending your rappel device away from your harness has a host of benefits . Dulfersitz Rappel Method The Dulfersitz Rappel (also known as Classical Abseil, or Body Rappel) is a non-mechanical rappelling (abseiling) technique- meaning no gear or rappel devices. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. It works both ways, but twists ropes. As with anything, they each have their advantages and disadvantages, and a lot of the distinction between them is going to come down to personal If you’re still using an 8 ring for rappelling though, you’re missing out on the latest developments in safety and convenience that come from canyoneering-specific devices like the Hoodoo and Critr. Nov 12, 2018 · Using a dedicated extension when rappelling in an alpine setting provides maximum flexibility and efficiency, allows you to move freely near the anchor while being clipped in, and maintains the extension within arms. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. This becomes important as the 6 days ago · Check my full step-by-step guide on How to Rappel with a GriGri Belay Device, the holy grail of belay devices. It is an essential device for climbing safety. One of the most necessary features in a solid canyoneering device is the ability to modify friction levels while rappelling. Learn how here. and a few problems. Lots of options allow careful adjustment of friction while on rappel. Feb 10, 2020 · You need a belay tool that doubles as a rappel device, a Personal Anchor System (PAS) and a backup to safely set up your rappel once you reach your anchor. Not only is it affordable but it has been crafted to withstand significant amounts of stress while supporting the load during a rappel. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Giga Jul combines assisted braking, standard tube-style use ("manual" mode), and auto-blocking all in one single device. Jul 24, 2024 · The basic idea of rappelling is that the ropes are passed through the top anchor and through the belay devices attached to your harness and your partner’s harness (Image credit: bizoo_n) How do you rappel? Mar 27, 2019 · Belay devices: what types? To address each use and every user, Petzl offers two types of device: assisted-braking belay devices belay/rappel devices Assisted-braking belay devices Principle: when the climber falls, the device pivots on the carabiner, the rope tightens, and the cam pinches and blocks the rope. Over time, climbing gear companies have made slight modifications to the designs, inventing tubers or ATC’s, and even ‘autolocking’ devices like the popular GriGri. No sense hauling a belay device on a trip where you are unlikely to belay or rappel. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO, REVERSO and UNIREVERSO). All have very similar functionality, are versatile enough to handle any situation, and are extremely safe when used properly. If the anchor points utilize hardware, the rope is typically threaded through rappel rings so that the mid-point of the rope is at the top, giving two strands of Jun 20, 2023 · Experts cover rappelling—its main principles, counter-weight rappelling, fixed line rappelling, extending your rappel, and selecting your rappel back-up system. Fold it over on itself and clip the other end of the sling into your belay loop with a locker. See May 7, 2024 · Rappelling requires equipment like a harness and rappel device to control the descent speed, whereas belaying involves using a belay device to manage rope tension for the climber's safety. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. This article covers how to belay with an ATC. Tie a stopper knot in blue, toss the blue rope. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. Lightweight and multipurpose, the Reverso can both belay and descend climbers with a snag-free, rounded design You don't have to belay anything there, and IF you have to rappel into a crevasse for rescue, a munter will do the trick. Petzl USA. Belaying with an ATC involves knowing how to: Set up the ATC belay device Belay … Oct 2, 2025 · Why use an assisted-braking device? With any belay device, you should never let go of the brake strand. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. What is needed to rappel? Jul 26, 2025 · The Munter Hitch is a versatile knot for belaying, rappelling, and emergency descents without a belay device. Versatile, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and ability to belay a second climber from the anchor Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. These are sometimes called “passive assisted braking devices” or “semi-automatic tube-style devices,” and are somewhat less common. There are tons of different belay/rappel devices you can safely use to drop down a cliff. Mar 26, 2020 · Here's the complete set up, ready to go. The best device to use when you are learning to rappel is a tubular belay device such as an ATC. Jul 25, 2025 · The figure 8 descender for rescue rappel is a versatile and widely used device in rappelling and rope rescue operations. The device, plus the belayer’s quick “braking hand” (which locks off the free end of the rope), helps keep tension on the rope and helps protect the climber at the other end. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Switching between the The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) is recommended for most rappelling. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. Mar 9, 2021 · Normally you would clip it to your harness with a carabiner, but I suggest you use an extended rappel by clipping your belay device to a loop in your PAS. . Learn how to create an extended rappel using a 120cm sling. Instead, the rope is wrapped around the body to create friction, allowing the climber to control their descent. So, let’s get into it! According to my research, the best rappelling devices for canyoneering include: SQWUREL 2 Canyonwerks CRITR 2 Petzl PIRANA Sterling ATS Belay/Rappel Device Figure 8/ATC Those are five strong candidates that will get you down any rappel that you need. com Independent belay/rappel device reviews by real outdoors people. To rappel safely you need a high-quality rope, a rappel or belay device, a harness, some type of anchor for your rope, and the knowledge required to safely use all of your equipment. Nov 22, 2021 · A belay device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. Despite the constant improving of canyoning descenders, the figure of 8 is still a fundamental device, and in my opinion everyone should master it before moving on to more ergonomic variants. The advantages of this method of Australian Rappel are the simple and familiar setup, and the ability to return to normal position if things get out of hand. You can read about them in this article I wrote. How to Rappel with a Figure 8 Device: Set the rope through the anchors, and check that anchors and harness are secure, with the carabiner Lost your belay device before a rappel? Do you know how to rappel with just your carabiners? Learn about the carabiner brake and munter hitch methods here. Attach your third-hand (Autoblock, Hollowblock, or accessory cord loop) to your belay loop using a large locking carabiner. Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. Note: this will have the autoblock positioned in a central and secure location well below the rappel device.